Silk has a reputation for being difficult. Some of that reputation is earned: silk does require more attention than cotton or synthetic fabrics. But most silk damage comes from a small number of specific mistakes, all of which are easy to avoid once you know what they are.
The two things that damage silk most ¶
Heat and alkaline detergent. Heat degrades the silk protein (sericin) and causes irreversible shrinkage and texture change. Alkaline detergents, including most standard laundry detergents, break down the silk fibre over time. Both problems are entirely avoidable. Wash in cold water. Use a pH-neutral or specialist silk wash (Marseille soap diluted in cold water works well; dedicated products like Woolite Delicates or Soak are reliable).
How to hand-wash silk correctly ¶
Fill a basin with cold water and add a small amount of silk wash. Submerge the piece and move it gently through the water for two to three minutes. Do not scrub, twist, or wring. Rinse twice in clean cold water. To remove excess water, lay the piece flat on a clean dry towel, roll the towel up with the piece inside, and press gently. Do not wring the towel. Unroll and lay the piece flat on a fresh dry surface.
Drying and storing silk ¶
Lay flat to dry, away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Direct sunlight will fade the colour over time; a well-ventilated room is ideal. Silk dries relatively quickly at room temperature. Once dry, store folded (not on a hanger, which can distort bias-cut pieces) in a breathable cotton bag or a drawer lined with acid-free tissue. Avoid plastic storage bags, which trap moisture.
Dealing with stains ¶
Act quickly. Blot (don't rub) with a clean cloth. For water-based stains, cold water and a small amount of silk wash applied immediately will usually lift the stain before it sets. For oil-based stains, a small amount of talcum powder left on the stain for an hour before brushing off can absorb the oil before washing. If a stain has set, take the piece to a specialist dry cleaner who handles silk. Do not attempt to remove a set stain at home.
A well-cared-for silk slip will last ten years or more. The care routine takes five minutes. It's worth building the habit early rather than after something goes wrong.